Adam Jones Adam63, CC BY-SA 3.0 , via Wikimedia Commons
South America’s beaches and COVID-19? Who doesn’t love a beach holiday? Especially in these times when the COVID-19 pandemic has us cooped up at home. We are all feeling the physical and psychological need for soaking up the sun’s warm rays while listening to waves measuredly washing upon the soft sands at our feet.
South America’s beaches are stuff songs are written about. Brazil’s Ipanema is sung about in the world’s most renowned samba song thanks to Carlos Joabim, and the Beach Boys made Peru’s Cerro Azul sought after by every serious surfing enthusiast the world over.
But there’s plenty more than those two. The fiesta continent’s beaches vary widely for different tastes. Some boast powdery white sand, while others have colored sand or pebbles. They meet up with the Caribbean Sea, or by the Pacific or Atlantic Oceans. Depending on latitude and currents, the ocean waters may be warm or frigid.
Only two South American nations have no ocean beaches, as they are landlocked countries: Bolivia and Paraguay. However, both do have good river beaches, as do many of the other countries on the continent.
As the COVID-19 pandemic is gradually being brought under control by individual and global public health efforts, many experts are saying the beach is one of the safest places to be, provided you choose those beaches where you can easily avoid crowds, not mix yourself into crowds.
Several reasons are cited for this: Outside of congested spots (which again, you should avoid), beaches provide large expanses of open space to physically distance yourself from others.
You should still wear masks, as ocean breezes can carry a sneeze or droplets from a cough farther, but the lack of enclosed space on the beach makes it harder for the virus to land on another person.
The virus does not grow or spread in nature, so getting closer to nature and farther away from humans is something the beach makes easier to do. The key is to avoid human activity and carry and use disinfectant, not just your usual suntan lotion.
South American countries need tourism to survive, so they are making more than the normal effort to determine best how to reopen their beaches safely. Ecuador has already reopened 25 beaches for locals and visitors Colombia is working on pilot programs for different beaches and cities. Peru is already allowing surfers to hit the waves, but with restrictions.
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Ideas they and others are examining include requiring vacationers to:
For more tips, check the US-based Centers for Disease Control’s Considerations for Public Beaches, a list of guidelines to help businesses and tourists alike stay COVID-safe at the beach.
Latin Americans love the beach just as much as their foreign guests do, and many of South America’s beaches are alluring all year. That’s why it’s not surprising to find playas absolutely packed whenever folks have some free time.
But in the new context of the health crisis, some South America’s beaches during the pandemic, are going to be packed which is exactly the opposite of what anyone should do. Take the opportunity to plan your itinerary more carefully so that you avoid using the beach during local or national holidays or other high-volume periods.
These are the High Season times to avoid heading to the beach:
By avoiding these High Season periods, you will not only find more peace and tranquility; you’ll also pay less for lodging, food, and transport!
Go one step further and actively plan your beach retreats for weekdays and for days during the Low Season. Do note, though, that especially in the Low Season, many hotels and restaurants may close in small beach resorts.
To find out the festivals in South America, pick up a copy of AndesTransit’s exclusive guide 365 Days on the Fiesta Continent
Beaches in South America offer loads of activities beyond swimming, sunbathing, and swaying in a hammock while sipping on a piña colada.
Other no-cost activities include walking, beachcombing (though leave animal and plant species alone to protect the environment), tidal pool exploring, and photography of fauna including sea lions, birds, turtles, dolphins, and other wildlife.
All South American countries have a big surfing scene. Peruvian surfistas are among some of the best in the world. If you prefer to explore underwater life and shipwrecks, then book either scuba or snorkeling outings directly from the beach or town nearby.
Several areas are known for their scuba schools where you can earn your PADI license. With scuba gear, be sure the scuba outfitter is using proper sterilization/disinfection procedures for mouthpieces, hoses, and other equipment.
In more tranquil waters, snorkeling is a great activity. To avoid possible contagion with COVID-19, you may want to use your own snorkeling gear. Often you can find it at local shops or in sporting goods stores in the larger cities. Be aware, though, that prices may be quite a bit higher than in your home country.
Other common sports at South American beaches are sailboarding, parasailing, kayaking, kite flying, dune buggying, windsurfing, sandboarding on dunes, as well as long-distance frisbee, fishing, and shellfish scavenging.
Get your duffle bag or daypack and stuff it with the following supplies:
Before heading out to the beach, here are a few personal security tips:
With so many great beaches and so many people wanting to get to them, it may seem Mission Impossible on traveling there and physically distancing at the same time!
That’s why we’ve scoured the maps, listened to travelers’ reports, and gone through our travel journals to find beaches that fit the bill for this specific and weird time we’re in. What we’ve found are some perfect, out-of-the-way seaside towns where you can make a great beach escape.
Note: Because these recommendations are designed with social distancing in mind, you will not have access to conveniences and services available in more crowded beach resorts. So, take plenty of cash with you to keep at your hotel; they have no or very limited banking facilities!
Also be aware that even these remote beaches will still have some crowding during the holiday and high seasons, so take our earlier advice and plan to visit them during low season or weekdays if you can.
Colombia is the only South American country with coastlines on two seas, along the Caribbean (1,760 kilometers of coast) and Pacific Ocean (1,448 km). It also has numerous islands, especially in the Caribbean, most notably Islas Rosario that is also a national park, Isla Barú near Cartagena, and the archipelago composed of San Andrés, Providencia, and Santa Catalina islands.
Some of South America’s beaches during the pandemic, especially the Caribbean beaches near Cartagena and Santa Marta (especially Taganga and Tayrona National Park) are super-popular with Colombians and foreigners alike. Places like Tolú and Coveñas also get incredibly crazy on holidays because they are so accessible. So for the sake of this article, none of those beaches make the list!
While Colombia’s Caribbean beaches are world-renowned, little attention is paid to those strands that are bathed by the Pacific Ocean. These are more difficult to get to, as fewer roads lead to the region. There are flights, though, to Buenaventura from Bogota on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays and to Bahía Solano from Medellin on a daily basis, which wins our ribbon for our Colombia pick of the best beach to escape the pandemic blues.
Being quite removed from civilization and accessible only by flight, or by boat from Buenaventura or Nuquí, is what makes Bahía Solano a great get-away-from-the-crowds destination. Even though this village in Chocó Department is remote, it has tons to offer you.
You can stroll along the dark sands of El Almejal or the white sands of Playa Blanca, or hike out to Cascada El Tigre, a waterfall that flows into the sea. To check out incredible wildlife, take a tour of Parque Nacional Natural Ensenada de Utría. Bahía Solano is also a perfect place for observing birds and whales (July-October). If you’re into outdoor sports like sport fishing, kayaking, scuba diving, and surfing, each has outfitters available to serve your passion.
Other attractions include the Jardín Botánico del Pacifico botanical gardens, or climbing the hill calle Altos de la Virgen. If you are interested in the Embera indigenous culture, make a plan to visit one of the nearby resguardos indígenas, like El Brazo, Posamanza, Boroboró or Villa Nueva Juná.
Important: In these fragile communities, it’s all the more important to maintain maximum physical distance and wear a mask even if you feel awkward or asymptomatic.
Bahía Solano enjoys a tropical climate, with daytime highs averaging 30ºC year-round. Rains are common in any month, though it is wettest in October and driest in February and March.
San Francisco de Solano (12-16 July), Festival de la Bahía (1-7 August)
Sancocho de pargo (red snapper soup made with coconut milk), gallina criolla (free-range chicken). Sweets made from local fruits borojó and almirajó, or from chontaduro (a palm fruit).
For all budgets, from camping to hospedajes and hostels, to eco-lodges.
Check other details about Bahia Solano
Ecuador’s Pacific Coast stretches 2,237 kilometers. Long strands of beach are punctuated by mangrove jungles. Offshore are small islands like Isla de la Plata and Puna where you can observe wildlife or even go camping. Of course, we cannot neglect to mention the famous Galápagos Islands, but that’s for another adventure! The Ecuadorian coast is a main corridor for the migration of whales and dolphins, especially between July and September.
Some beaches near major urban centers, like Salinas and Playas near Guayaquil, are crowded during vacations and weekends. Citizens of Quito head for the beaches in Atacames or Pedernales, as these are the closest playas to the country’s capital, however, Pedernales was severely impacted by the 2016 earthquake and receives fewer visits as a result. The well-known Montañita and Canoa beaches are über-popular with national and international backpackers. During whale-watching season and holidays, Puerto López gets really busy, but at other times of the year, it’s tranquilo.
Ecuadorians love to head to the beach during Semana Santa, Christmas-New Year’s vacation, and national holidays. When school is out (in the Sierra, July-beginning of September; on the coast, February-end of April), you’ll also find them visiting the beaches in high numbers.
None of the above, therefore, qualify for beaches where you can get maximum personal space. For quieter beaches, try any of the lesser-known small beach towns along the Ruta del Spondylus (a.k.a. Ruta del Sol) like Muisne, San Clemente, San Vicente, Manglaralto and Ayampe.
Ayampe in southern Manabí Province is our winner in Ecuador for South America’s best escape beaches. It is one of many small towns along this stretch of coast that is becoming popular with travelers and expat retirees and so it is a bit pricier than other places. Despite its growing popularity, it has committed itself to being a chill destination and has a very wide beach to claim for yourself with few others.
Besides walking down the beach, sunbathing and swimming, what else does this small idyllic hamlet offer? Well, you can ‘hang ten’, as the waves curl so nicely here for surfers. You can also sign up for a yoga retreat or take Spanish classes.
Being just 20 minutes south of Puerto López, Ayampe is close enough to make a day trip into that town to check out Los Frailes Beach or the hot springs at Agua Blanca. But you don’t have to head to Puerto López to watch the whales or boat out to Isla de la Plata (“The Poor Man’s Galápagos”). You can make these excursions from Ayampe!
Ayampe has a pleasant, semi-arid climate. High temperatures range from 22º-26ºC, with August and September being the cooler months and February to April the warmest ones. The wettest months are February and March; very little precipitation falls June-November.
Fiesta de San Pedro y San Pablo, patron saints of fishermen (28-29 June). Carnaval (February/March) and Day of the Dead (1-2 November) are other festivities to check out (though there will be crowds!).
Fresh seafood, especially ceviche, camarones (shrimp) or fish in coconut sauce. Bollo de pescado (a fish tamale), bolón de verde (a green plantain ball filled with cheese or pork fatback).
Camping, hostels, hotel, cabañas.
Peru’s Pacific coast extends 2,414 kilometers between Ecuador and Chile. The extreme northern part is mangrove forest. Due to the cold Humboldt Current that comes barreling up Peru’s coast, the rest of the coast is marked by desert that tumbles into the sea.
In northern Peru, at about the latitude of Máncora, this current veers westward towards the Galápagos Islands. Thus, depending on the season, the sea at Máncora and nearby towns may be warm one day and frigid the next.
Like other Latin Americans, Peruvians love heading to the beach during holidays, including their Fiestas Patrias in July. Any beach (including the more laid back ones) will be packed. The more permanently popular destinations include Máncora (a mecca for international backpackers and surfistas), Punta Sal, and Lima (yes – the capital has some wicked surfing!).
Since we’re on the hunt for less packed but beautiful beaches, we’re going to steer you elsewhere than all that.
In northern Peru, there are other quieter beaches near Máncora and Piura that fit the bill, like Cabo Blanco and Colán. South of Lima, good choices are Paracas (with a beautiful nature reserve nearby and wildlife-rich Islas Ballestas just offshore) and Boca del Río. Just remember to avoid these places at local vacation times so you maximize your chances of getting enough physical distance.
Boca del Río is a popular beach resort located 52 kilometers from Tacna, at the mouth of the Río Sama. So if it’s popular, you may ask, why would we be giving it our Peruvian award for the best beach to escape the crowds?
The reason is that even though it is technically classified as a “resort,” Boca del Río is a simple, unpretentious, and economical place. It’s only popular during high season periods, so all you need to do is plan to visit during the low season and on weekdays, when it magically returns to a sleepy village and a beach all to yourself.
Boulders lining the beach create small pools in which to soak. Because the sea here is shallow, the water is a bit warmer than other Peruvian coastal destinations. Outdoor activities include fishing, scavenging for clam and other shellfish, beachcombing, and, of course, just strolling the dozen beaches that flow along this stretch of the coast.
Playas La Lisera and El Planchón are the most popular. To get away from any crowds, head for Playita Brava, Los Hornos or Los Yuyales.
Daytime highs are 19-26ºC; the coolest months are July and August. The climate is dry year-round.
New Year’s Eve.
Fresh seafood and fish!
Simple hotels, vacation house rentals, camping.
Check their Facebook page for more pictures and activities.
With an immense coastline of 6,435 kilometers, Chile is a sea-facing nation for sure! Beach holidays are an essential part of this country’s identity, and Chileans master the fine art of seafood culinary delights.
The Pacific coast is like tattered lace, with many inlets and rocky shores. The Humboldt Current makes a majority of the swimming in the ocean a cold pursuit.
If you’ll be doing any surfing, a full-body wetsuit is necessary. The best places for this activity are Arica and Iquique in the north and Pichilemu south of Santiago. However, Arica and Iquique also get year-round warm temperatures, so swimming is more refreshing in those northern destinations.
Further south, entering the sea is best in summer, but even then, it’s cold enough you won’t want to stay in the water long. Once past Puerto Aysén (off the Carretera Austral), it’s common to see glaciers breaking off into the sea to become icebergs.
All along the way, from Arica in the north to Punta Arenas on the shores of the Strait of Magellan, you’ll find places to make a great beach escape, especially between Santiago and Puerto Montt, in the regions of Ñuble, Biobío, La Araucanía, Los Ríos and Los Lagos.
In Los Ríos Region, just 17 kilometers southwest of Valdivia, is the wonderful small seaside village of Los Molinos that’s off foreign travelers’ radar, and because of that wins our Chile pick for best beach to escape the pandemic blues.
During the austral summer months (December-February), this balneario is a favorite destination for Chilean vacationers. The rest of the year, however, Los Molinos becomes a more private place to stroll the beach and forget the world.
Besides the main beach in town, there are other strands to the north, like San Ignacio and Cuñarico. A big activity in Los Molinos is fishing, both from the shore and from the boat. Boat cruises are available to go to the Spanish fort on Isla Mancera, or to Valdivia city.
Lots of day trips await you, like the series of old Spanish forts that begin at Niebla (2.5 kilometers south) and continue all the way up the river. On your way into Valdivia to check the sites there, make a pit stop at Kunstmann Brewery. And to explore the flora and fauna on this stretch of the coast, head to Reserva Costera Punta de Curiñanco (17 kilometers north of Los Molinos). This reserve has four hiking trails, and lodging (including camping) is available outside the reserve.
Between April and November, the climate is cold and rainy.
Feria costumbrista (in Cuñarico, to the horth; January/February), Feria del Mar (Niebla, mid-May)
Fresh fish and seafood (try the queso-camarón empanadas!)
Simple hotels, cabañas, hostel, camping (San Ignacio)
Check the official site for more information.
Argentina’s coast, which stretches 4,989 kilometers from the Río de la Plata to the Strait of Magellan, is in its entirety partnered with the South Atlantic Ocean. The sea is warmest during austral summer (December – February) and is the best-experienced north of the Río Negro, which is the beginning of Patagonia.
For that reason, as well as their close proximity to Buenos Aires, the seaside towns of Mar del Plata, Pinamar and Miramar are the most sought after beach destinations.
Now, to say that Argentinians are VERY serious about their summer vacations is an understatement. From November through February, millions descend on the beach towns all down the coast, even deep into Patagonia.
Northern Patagonia resorts, like Las Grutas and El Cóndor, receive thousands of visitors per day in summer. This region has warm waters due to the restingas, which are shallow pools that form in the sea’s bedrock. The further south you go, you’ll find colder water and fewer crowds. Camarones is one such destination.
The Argentinian coast also has many nature reserves and national parks, especially in Patagonia. In September, the whales swim by Puerto Madryn and the penguins arrive at Punta Tombo near Trelew. These seasonal migrations also draw many tourists, both national and international.
A half-hour southeast of Viedma is El Cóndor, our Argentinian pick for best beach to escape the pandemic blues. This is the first balneario on a 160-kilometer-long Camino de la Costa which includes Las Grutas and other prime Northern Patagonian beaches with warm waters thanks to the shallow seabed.
Because it is easily reached from Buenos Aires and other major cities, El Cóndor is a popular summer destination for Argentinian vacationers. But outside the high season, El Cóndor is a chill place to be.
The high Patagonian winds make El Cóndor a prime place for kite buggying and windsurfing. Other sports include frisbee and fishing (especially at the river’s mouth).
Attractions include a shrine to Blessed Ceferino Namúncura (the first indigenous saint-to-be) with incredible views of the land and seascape, and El Faro, Patagonia’s oldest lighthouse. El Cóndor is home to the world’s largest colony of burrowing parakeets.
Summer highs average 24-25ºC (December-February); in winter it gets quite nippy (June-August; highs 12-13ºC, lows 2ºC). Expect showers in any month.
Fiesta del Mar y del Acampante, featuring (sporting competitions, cultural events; end January – beginning February), Noche de San Juan (June 24)
Sole and other fish, locro, empanadas criollas
Hotels, camping (some campgrounds open year-round), vacation home rentals.
Check this guide with more information on what to do.
Uruguay has a small 672 kilometers of coastline, of which 452 kilometers are along the Río de la Plata and 220 kilometers on the Atlantic Ocean. The most famous beach town along the Atlantic coast is the hyper-expensive Punta del Este.
Smaller and more economical beach destinations, though, await travelers coming to this corner of South America. A few to add to your itinerary are José Ignacio, La Paloma, Cabo Polonio and Punta del Diablo. Surfing is a popular sport.
Part of the adventure of Cabo Polonio is getting there, which is why it’s endeared to us as an escape beach and our Uruguayan pick. Because the village of Cabo Polonio is located within Parque Nacional Cabo Polonio, only authorized 4×4 vehicles are allowed to enter there. Most people travel by bus from Montevideo to the entrance of Cabo Polonio and then you can get there to the village bike, horseback, or walking the eight kilometers from the national park entrance on the highway.
The other adventure of Cabo Polonio is its very rustic nature. The town has no electricity except that generated by solar and wind power, nor does it have running water or paved streets.
This is the way the villagers want it and they fiercely protect their off-the-grid lifestyle.
You will be surprised, however, that Cabo Polonio has quite a few things to do once you get there. The sand dunes are great for hiking or sandboarding. Nature abounds there with fantastic bird watching walks, and one of the largest sea lion colonies in South America, not to mention whale watching from August to November. Cabo Polonio is also one of Uruguay’s primo surfing spots. Swimming is also good, especially at Playa Calavera.
In the summer months, temperatures can reach 30ºC. Winters are cold, grey and wet – but this is when the whales come swimming by! It is windy year-round.
Carnaval (February/March)
Fish, seafood, buñuelos de algas (seaweed fritters).
Posadas, hostels. Camping is not allowed, as Cabo Polonio is a national park; the nearest campgrounds are in Barra de Valizas.
Check their official informational site.
Being South America’s largest country, Brazil of course has the longest coastline: 7,491 kilometers washed by the Atlantic Ocean extending on either side of the equator.
Brazilians famously LOVE their beaches, so much so that they influence worldwide fashion in beachwear, suntan lotions and other beach-themed paraphernalia. Coupled with the country’s year-round tropical climate, you’ll find the beaches crowded on any day, at any time of the year.
In order to practice successful social distancing, keep away from the beaches near major cities.
This includes those famous (or infamous) praias Copacabana and Ipanema in Rio de Janeiro. The masses of humanity here are WAY too much.
Still, Brazil does have many out-of-the-way beach destinations. It’s just a matter of researching and, more importantly, asking locals. If you have deep pockets, an ideal destination is Fernando de Noronha, a tropical island about 350 kilometers off the northeast coast which has a protected national marine park and ecological sanctuary, as well as being a UNESCO World Heritage Site. More economical beach towns – all on the mainland – include Ilha das Peças, Alcântara, and Ilha Grande.
Ilha Grande (pronounced: EEL-ya GRAN-gee) is our pick for the best Brazilian beach town to escape the pandemic blues. Like our pick for Uruguay, you have to put some extra effort into getting there in order to get the well-deserved reward.
From the port of Angra dos Reis (156 kilometers west of Rio de Janeiro) or Conceição de Jacareí (129 kilometers west), take the ferry to Vila do Abraão, the main town on Ilha Grande.
Once there, you’ll have to rely on the network of hiking trails, or local pick-ups to get around, as the island has no private cars or roads!
In the past, Ilha Grande was a leper colony and then later a high-security prison until the 1990s. Now only about 7,000 people live on the entire island, split between 13 settlements.
The largest of these communities is Vila do Abraão and Provetá. The entire Ilha is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. About a third of the island is protected by the Reserva Biológica Estadual da Praia do Sul and the Parque Marinho do Aventureiro. Local fauna includes howler monkeys, sloths, parrots, caimans, sea turtles, Magellanic penguins, whales, and dolphins.
Within this setting, Ilha Grande offers an abundance of virgin rainforest and pristine beaches, ready for days of hiking, biking, swimming, sunning and just general lazing around. Climb Pico da Pedra D’Água (1,031 meters) or go out to explore the island’s cascades and caverns.
If you need something a bit more energetic, then go snorkeling, scuba diving, surfing, or kayaking.
Summertime highs can reach 36ºC; in winter, it gets up to only 25ºC and at nigh drops to a brisk 12ºC. January is the wettest month, and July the driest. Remember that Ilha Grande is popular during holidays, summer vacations (November-February) – and, thanks to its proximity to Rio de Janeiro, on weekends.
Festival de Cerveza de Villa do Abraão (2nd week of February), XVI Festival de Música y Ecología de la Ilha Grande (July, Villa Abraão), Festival de Frutos do Mar da Praia do Bananal (September). Also each hamlet has its own patron saint celebrations.
Fresh fish and seafood (frutos do mar), including in casseroles and stews. Caipirinha, a cocktail made from cachaça liquor.
Pousadas, hostels, hotels, camping (in Vila do Abraão, Parnaioca and Praia do Aventureiro).
Check the official site here.
Lorraine Caputo is a travel writer, poet, and translator. She has authored ten guidebooks for South America. Her literary works appear in over 150 journals in Canada, the US, Latin America, Europe, Asia, Australia, and Africa; 18 anthologies and eleven chapbooks – including the collections of travel poetry, Caribbean Nights (Red Bird Chapbooks, 2014) and Notes from the Patagonia (dancing girl press, 2017). For more than a decade, she has been traveling through Latin America, listening to the voices of the pueblos and Earth. Follow her travels on her Facebook page.
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